The Cellar Register · One Hundred Other Wines

1Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Montrachet

Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy · France

The most expensive dry white wine made.

A fraction of a hectare in the great white grand cru; a few hundred bottles a year.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $6,000–9,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–40 years
Production: ~250 cases
Established: Holding from 1963
Farming: Biodynamic
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 1996, 2002, 2010, 2014, 2018

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Very rare

2Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet

Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy · France

The reference for biodynamic white Burgundy.

Anne-Claude Leflaive converted the domaine to biodynamics in the 1990s.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $1,200–1,800
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~400 cases
Established: Domaine from 1717
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2010, 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020

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Very rare

3Domaine Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne

Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy · France

Smoky, reduced style; the collector's white.

Jean-François Coche's matchstick signature made the domaine a cult name.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $4,000–6,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~200 cases
Established: Domaine from 1920s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2019

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Very rare

4Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault Perrières

Meursault, Burgundy · France

Meursault's finest premier cru, biodynamically farmed.

Widely held to deserve grand cru status; Dominique Lafon farms biodynamically.

Classification: Premier Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $500–800
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 12–30 years
Production: ~350 cases
Established: Domaine from 1869
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Very rare

5Domaine Ramonet, Bâtard-Montrachet

Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy · France

Powerful grand cru from a legendary family.

The Ramonets were among the first Burgundy growers to bottle their own wine.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $900–1,400
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~300 cases
Established: Domaine from 1920s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020

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Very rare

6Domaine Roulot, Meursault Les Perrières

Meursault, Burgundy · France

Precision and tension over weight.

Jean-Marc Roulot's cool, chiselled style redefined modern Meursault.

Classification: Premier Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $800–1,200
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 12–30 years
Production: ~250 cases
Established: Domaine from 1830
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Very rare

7Domaine Raveneau, Chablis Les Clos

Chablis, Burgundy · France

The benchmark grand cru Chablis.

Kimmeridgian marl, old barrels and long ageing; the reference for the appellation.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $800–1,200
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~300 cases
Established: Domaine from 1948
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020

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Very rare

8Domaine Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat

Chablis, Burgundy · France

Raveneau's peer, and its equal in stature.

Vincent Dauvissat ferments in old wood and bottles late.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $500–800
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~350 cases
Established: Domaine from 1930s
Farming: Biodynamic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Very rare

9Domaine Leroy, Corton-Charlemagne

Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy · France

Biodynamic grand cru at extreme scarcity.

Lalou Bize-Leroy's minute yields and biodynamic farming apply to whites as to reds.

Classification: Grand Cru
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $3,000–5,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~100 cases
Established: Domaine from 1988
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2019

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Very rare

10Domaine Guffens-Heynen, Pouilly-Fuissé

Mâconnais, Burgundy · France

The Mâconnais raised to serious white Burgundy.

Jean-Marie Guffens proved the south could rival the Côte de Beaune.

Classification: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $120–200
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Domaine from 1979
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

11Château Haut-Brion Blanc

Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux · France

The rarest and finest dry white Bordeaux.

A few hundred cases from the first growth's white parcels.

Classification: Pessac-Léognan AOC
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $800–1,200
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–40 years
Production: ~600 cases
Established: White from 1930s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2009, 2014, 2016, 2018, 2020

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Very rare

12Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux · France

Long-lived classed-growth white of great finesse.

Produced in tiny quantity beside the estate's red.

Classification: Cru Classé de Graves
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $180–280
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~1,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1865
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020

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Retail

13Château d'Yquem

Sauternes, Bordeaux · France

The only Premier Cru Supérieur, and the world's great sweet wine.

Pickers pass through the vineyard repeatedly, selecting botrytised berries one by one.

Classification: Premier Cru Supérieur, 1855
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $400–600
Availability: Actively traded; fine wine merchants and brokers, Liv-ex secondary market
Drinking: 30–100 years
Production: ~6,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1593
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 1967, 1988, 2001, 2009, 2015

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Traded

14Château Climens

Barsac, Bordeaux · France

Pure Sémillon Barsac of crystalline balance.

Bérénice Lurton converted the estate to biodynamics; parcels are vinified separately.

Classification: Premier Cru, 1855
Grapes: Sémillon
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $100–160
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 25–60 years
Production: ~3,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1547
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2001, 2009, 2011, 2015, 2017

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Retail

15Château Rieussec

Sauternes, Bordeaux · France

Rothschild-owned Sauternes of depth and colour.

Neighbours Yquem; owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild since 1984.

Classification: Premier Cru, 1855
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~7,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1700s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2001, 2009, 2011, 2015, 2017

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Retail

16Château Suduiraut

Sauternes, Bordeaux · France

Rich, honeyed Sauternes beside Yquem.

AXA-owned with gardens laid out by Le Nôtre.

Classification: Premier Cru, 1855
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~7,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1600s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2001, 2009, 2011, 2015, 2017

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Retail

17Domaine Huet, Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie

Vouvray, Loire · France

Botrytised Chenin that ages for generations.

Biodynamic since 1990; three named parcels vinified apart.

Classification: Vouvray AOC, moelleux
Grapes: Chenin Blanc
Alcohol: 12–13%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 30–70 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Domaine from 1928
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 1989, 1990, 1997, 2003, 2015

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Allocation

18Domaine Huet, Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec

Vouvray, Loire · France

Dry Chenin of remarkable longevity.

The domaine's founding vineyard, on clay over limestone.

Classification: Vouvray AOC, sec
Grapes: Chenin Blanc
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $40–60
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~2,000 cases
Established: Domaine from 1928
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2018, 2020, 2022

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Retail

19Nicolas Joly, Coulée de Serrant

Savennières, Loire · France

A monopole appellation of its own, biodynamic since 1980.

One of very few single estates with its own appellation; Joly is biodynamics' loudest advocate.

Classification: Savennières-Coulée de Serrant AOC
Grapes: Chenin Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14.5%
Guide price: $100–150
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–40 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Vineyard from 1130
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 13°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020

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Allocation

20Didier Dagueneau, Silex

Domaine Didier Dagueneau

Pouilly-Fumé, Loire · France

The wine that made Sauvignon Blanc serious.

Barrel-fermented from flint soils; the late Dagueneau farmed by horse.

Classification: Pouilly-Fumé AOC
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $180–280
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Domaine from 1982
Farming: Biodynamic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Allocation

21Didier Dagueneau, Pur Sang

Domaine Didier Dagueneau

Pouilly-Fumé, Loire · France

Barrel-raised Sauvignon of textural depth.

Named for the thoroughbred; from limestone rather than flint parcels.

Classification: Pouilly-Fumé AOC
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Domaine from 1982
Farming: Biodynamic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Allocation

22François Cotat, Sancerre Les Monts Damnés

Sancerre, Loire · France

Steep Chavignol slopes, made without compromise.

Picked late, fermented with wild yeast and bottled without fining.

Classification: Sancerre AOC
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14.5%
Guide price: $80–120
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 10–30 years
Production: ~600 cases
Established: Family from 1920s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2022

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Very rare

23Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre Les Romains

Sancerre, Loire · France

Flint-soil Sancerre from a biodynamic estate.

Silex parcels give a smoky, mineral register.

Classification: Sancerre AOC
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Domaine from 1919
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

24Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru

Alsace · France

Granite grand cru Riesling of great purity.

Schlossberg was Alsace's first designated grand cru, in 1975.

Classification: Alsace Grand Cru
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $90–130
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Domaine from 1898
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

25Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Riesling Clos Sainte Hune

Alsace · France

Biodynamic Alsace at its most concentrated.

Olivier Humbrecht was France's first Master of Wine and farms biodynamically throughout.

Classification: Alsace Grand Cru
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13–14%
Guide price: $120–200
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~600 cases
Established: Domaine from 1959
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

26Trimbach, Clos Sainte Hune

Maison Trimbach

Alsace · France

Alsace's most celebrated dry Riesling.

A 1.67 ha parcel within Rosacker, released after several years in bottle.

Classification: Alsace, single vineyard
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $250–400
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~700 cases
Established: Family from 1626
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2009, 2012, 2015, 2017, 2018

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Very rare

27Weingut Egon Müller, Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

Saar, Mosel · Germany

The most valuable Riesling in the world.

Slate slopes above the Saar; the family has owned Scharzhofberg since 1797.

Classification: VDP Grosse Lage, Auslese
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 7–8.5%
Guide price: $800–2,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 30–80 years
Production: ~300 cases
Established: Estate from 1797
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 1976, 1990, 2003, 2015, 2018

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Very rare

28Weingut Egon Müller, Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese

Saar, Mosel · Germany

Auction Riesling at the summit of the category.

Made only in rare years and sold chiefly at the Trier auctions.

Classification: VDP Grosse Lage, TBA
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 6–7.5%
Guide price: $8,000–20,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 50–100 years
Production: A few hundred bottles
Established: Estate from 1797
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 1976, 2003, 2005, 2015, 2018

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Very rare

29Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

Mosel · Germany

The sundial slope; ageless and precise.

The estate releases late and its wines famously need years to open.

Classification: VDP Grosse Lage, Auslese
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 7.5–8.5%
Guide price: $120–200
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 25–60 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Estate from 1911
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 1990, 2001, 2015, 2018, 2019

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Allocation

30Weingut Keller, G-Max

Rheinhessen · Germany

Germany's most sought dry Riesling.

The vineyard is undisclosed; allocation is by relationship rather than purchase.

Classification: Dry Riesling, undisclosed site
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 12–13%
Guide price: $1,500–3,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 20–40 years
Production: ~200 cases
Established: First vintage 2001
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 11°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Very rare

31Weingut Keller, Abtserde Grosses Gewächs

Rheinhessen · Germany

Limestone grand cru of severe precision.

A parcel within Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen on white limestone.

Classification: VDP Grosses Gewächs
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $200–350
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~400 cases
Established: Estate from 1789
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 11°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Very rare

32Weingut Dönnhoff, Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs

Nahe · Germany

The Nahe's reference dry Riesling.

Volcanic and slate soils above the Nahe river; Helmut Dönnhoff's signature site.

Classification: VDP Grosses Gewächs
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Estate from 1750
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

33Weingut Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese

Mosel · Germany

Delicate Mosel from a storied sundial slope.

The Juffer-Sonnenuhr was praised by Napoleon's tax assessors as the region's best.

Classification: VDP Grosse Lage, Auslese
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 7.5–8.5%
Guide price: $100–160
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 25–50 years
Production: ~600 cases
Established: Estate from 1605
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2001, 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020

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Allocation

34Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese

Rheingau · Germany

Rheingau botrytis at the highest level.

Berry-by-berry selection in the steep Gräfenberg site.

Classification: VDP Grosse Lage, TBA
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 6.5–8%
Guide price: $800–1,500
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 40–90 years
Production: A few hundred half-bottles
Established: Estate from 1875
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2003, 2011, 2015, 2018, 2019

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Very rare

35Weingut F.X. Pichler, Grüner Veltliner M Smaragd

Wachau · Austria

The Wachau's most powerful Grüner.

'M' for Monumental; from terraced gneiss above the Danube.

Classification: Wachau Smaragd
Grapes: Grüner Veltliner
Alcohol: 14–14.5%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Estate from 1898
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

36Weingut Emmerich Knoll, Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd

Wachau · Austria

Classical Wachau Riesling with the Saint Urban label.

Terraced primary rock; the estate resists early release.

Classification: Wachau Smaragd
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $90–130
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Estate from 1825
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

37Weingut Prager, Riesling Achleiten Smaragd

Wachau · Austria

Achleiten's stony signature at full ripeness.

The Achleiten site is famed for a distinctive stony aroma.

Classification: Wachau Smaragd
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $90–130
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~600 cases
Established: Estate from 1715
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

38Weingut Alzinger, Grüner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd

Wachau · Austria

Restrained Wachau in a region of power.

Leo Alzinger picks earlier than most, favouring tension over weight.

Classification: Wachau Smaragd
Grapes: Grüner Veltliner
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 12–25 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Estate from 1960s
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

39Schloss Gobelsburg, Riesling Heiligenstein Erste Lage

Kamptal · Austria

Desert-sandstone slope of great age.

The Heiligenstein's soils are 250 million years old, unusual for a vineyard.

Classification: ÖTW Erste Lage
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 12–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Estate from 1171
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Retail

40Château-Grillet

Northern Rhône · France

A single estate with its own appellation.

Just 3.5 ha in an amphitheatre above the Rhône; owned by Artémis since 2011.

Classification: Château-Grillet AOC
Grapes: Viognier
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $180–280
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Appellation from 1936
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

41Domaine Georges Vernay, Condrieu Coteau de Vernon

Condrieu, Rhône · France

The vineyard that saved Condrieu from extinction.

Vernay replanted when the appellation had fallen to a handful of hectares.

Classification: Condrieu AOC
Grapes: Viognier
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $200–300
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Domaine from 1937
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

42Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage Blanc

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave

Hermitage, Rhône · France

White Hermitage that outlives most reds.

Made in tiny quantity from old Marsanne on the hill's western slopes.

Classification: Hermitage AOC
Grapes: Marsanne, Roussanne
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $400–600
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~400 cases
Established: Family from 1481
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020

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Very rare

43Château de Beaucastel, Roussanne Vieilles Vignes

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône · France

Old-vine Roussanne that ages for decades.

From vines planted in the 1900s; a rare varietal Roussanne of this age.

Classification: Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
Grapes: Roussanne
Alcohol: 14%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Perrin from 1909
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020

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Allocation

44Gaja, Gaia & Rey

Langhe, Piedmont · Italy

The Chardonnay that startled Piedmont.

Angelo Gaja planted Chardonnay in Nebbiolo country in 1979, to some scandal.

Classification: Langhe DOC
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $250–350
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: First vintage 1983
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2010, 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020

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Allocation

45Vietti, Roero Arneis

Roero, Piedmont · Italy

The bottling that rescued a near-extinct grape.

Alfredo Currado revived Arneis in the 1960s when it had nearly vanished.

Classification: Roero Arneis DOCG
Grapes: Arneis
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $25–40
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 2–6 years
Production: ~15,000 cases
Established: Revived from 1967
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

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Retail

46Benanti, Pietra Marina

Etna, Sicily · Italy

High-altitude volcanic white of long life.

From Carricante at 900 metres on Etna's eastern slope; ages remarkably.

Classification: Etna Bianco Superiore DOC
Grapes: Carricante
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~700 cases
Established: Estate from 1988
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2013, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020

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Allocation

47Jermann, Vintage Tunina

Friuli-Venezia Giulia · Italy

Italy's founding modern white blend.

Named for a Venetian; blended from co-planted varieties since 1975.

Classification: Venezia Giulia IGT
Grapes: Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla and others
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~5,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1975
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Retail

48Gravner, Ribolla Gialla Anfora

Friuli-Venezia Giulia · Italy

The amphora wine that founded a movement.

Joško Gravner turned to buried Georgian qvevri in 2001, with long skin contact.

Classification: Venezia Giulia IGT
Grapes: Ribolla Gialla
Alcohol: 13–14%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–35 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Amphora from 2001
Farming: Biodynamic practice
Serving: Serve 14°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2010, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017

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Allocation

49Radikon, Oslavje

Friuli-Venezia Giulia · Italy

Skin-contact white without sulphur.

Stanko Radikon abandoned added sulphur in 1999 and used a bespoke bottle format.

Classification: Venezia Giulia IGT
Grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio
Alcohol: 13–14%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Estate from 1980
Farming: Organic, no added sulphur
Serving: Serve 14°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

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Allocation

50Antinori, Cervaro della Sala

Castello della Sala

Umbria · Italy

Italy's benchmark barrel-fermented white.

First vintage 1985; Grechetto gives it an Umbrian accent.

Classification: Umbria IGT
Grapes: Chardonnay, Grechetto
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $50–80
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~15,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1985
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Retail

51Kistler, Vine Hill Chardonnay

Kistler Vineyards

Russian River Valley, California · USA

The mailing-list Chardonnay of California.

Single-vineyard bottlings sold chiefly by allocation since 1979.

Classification: Russian River Valley AVA
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Winery from 1978
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

52Aubert, Lauren Vineyard Chardonnay

Aubert Wines

Sonoma Coast, California · USA

Rich coastal Chardonnay with a devoted list.

Mark Aubert farms cool coastal sites for concentrated, oak-framed whites.

Classification: Sonoma Coast AVA
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 14–14.5%
Guide price: $150–220
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 8–18 years
Production: ~700 cases
Established: First vintage 1999
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

53Peter Michael, Ma Belle-Fille Chardonnay

Peter Michael Winery

Knights Valley, Sonoma · USA

Burgundian method on a volcanic Sonoma hillside.

Barrel-fermented with full lees work in the Côte de Beaune manner.

Classification: Knights Valley AVA
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 14%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~1,000 cases
Established: Winery from 1982
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

54Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello Chardonnay

Santa Cruz Mountains, California · USA

Limestone-grown Chardonnay of unusual restraint.

From the same ridge as the celebrated Cabernet, on limestone soils.

Classification: Santa Cruz Mountains AVA
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $80–120
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: White from 1962
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

55Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Chardonnay

Margaret River, Western Australia · Australia

Australia's most celebrated Chardonnay.

Robert Mondavi identified the site in the 1970s; each vintage carries commissioned art.

Classification: Margaret River GI
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $90–130
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~5,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1980
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2014, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Retail

56Giaconda, Estate Vineyard Chardonnay

Beechworth, Victoria · Australia

Granite-soil Chardonnay in tiny quantity.

Rick Kinzbrunner's cellar is cut into granite; production is minute.

Classification: Beechworth GI
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 12–25 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: First vintage 1986
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Very rare

57Cloudy Bay, Te Koko

Marlborough · New Zealand

Barrel-aged Sauvignon, the antithesis of the Marlborough norm.

Wild-fermented and oak-aged, made in deliberate contrast to the house style.

Classification: Marlborough GI
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $50–80
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 8–15 years
Production: ~4,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1996
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Retail

58Kumeu River, Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay

Auckland · New Zealand

New Zealand Chardonnay that beats Burgundy blind.

Named for the founder; the Brajkovich family have four Masters of Wine between them.

Classification: Kumeu GI
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: First vintage 1993
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Retail

59Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Chardonnay

Hemel-en-Aarde Valley · South Africa

The Cape's benchmark Chardonnay.

Clay-rich shale soils near the sea; farmed since 1976.

Classification: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley WO
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $50–75
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~4,000 cases
Established: Planted 1976
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Retail

60Sadie Family Wines, Palladius

Swartland · South Africa

A blend of many old white varieties across the Swartland.

Assembled from more than a dozen old-vine parcels, raised in clay and concrete.

Classification: Swartland WO
Grapes: White field blend
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $100–150
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 10–25 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: First vintage 2002
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

61Álvaro Palacios / As Sortes

Rafael Palacios

Valdeorras, Galicia · Spain

Godello raised to grand cru ambition.

Rafael Palacios turned to Godello in Valdeorras and made it serious.

Classification: Valdeorras DO
Grapes: Godello
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: First vintage 2007
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

62R. López de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva

Rioja · Spain

White Rioja aged a decade in barrel.

Released after roughly ten years in American oak and further bottle age.

Classification: Rioja DOCa Gran Reserva
Grapes: Viura, Malvasía
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $100–160
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Bodega from 1877
Farming: Traditional, no chemicals
Serving: Serve 13°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 1987, 1994, 2001, 2004, 2010

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Allocation

63Zárate, El Palomar Albariño

Bodegas Zárate

Rías Baixas, Galicia · Spain

Old-vine Albariño with genuine ageing capacity.

From ungrafted vines over a century old on granite.

Classification: Rías Baixas DO
Grapes: Albariño
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Family from 1707
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

64Sandeman / Niepoort Vintage Port

Douro · Portugal

Declared vintage Port for very long ageing.

Vintage Port is declared only in exceptional years, roughly three times a decade.

Classification: Vintage Port DOC
Grapes: Touriga Nacional field blend
Alcohol: 19–20%
Guide price: $80–150
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 20–60 years
Production: ~2,000 cases
Established: House from 1842
Farming: Traditional lagar treading
Serving: Decant fully, serve 16°C
Vintages: 1994, 2000, 2011, 2016, 2017

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Retail

65Taylor's Vintage Port

Taylor Fladgate

Douro · Portugal

The most structured of the classic vintage Ports.

Vargellas and Terra Feita quintas provide the backbone.

Classification: Vintage Port DOC
Grapes: Touriga Nacional field blend
Alcohol: 20%
Guide price: $120–200
Availability: Actively traded; fine wine merchants and brokers, Liv-ex secondary market
Drinking: 25–70 years
Production: ~8,000 cases
Established: House from 1692
Farming: Traditional lagar treading
Serving: Decant fully, serve 16°C
Vintages: 1963, 1977, 1994, 2011, 2017

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Traded

66Fonseca Vintage Port

Douro · Portugal

Opulent counterpart to Taylor's austerity.

Still foot-trodden in granite lagares at Quinta do Panascal.

Classification: Vintage Port DOC
Grapes: Touriga Nacional field blend
Alcohol: 20%
Guide price: $100–180
Availability: Actively traded; fine wine merchants and brokers, Liv-ex secondary market
Drinking: 25–70 years
Production: ~7,000 cases
Established: House from 1815
Farming: Traditional lagar treading
Serving: Decant fully, serve 16°C
Vintages: 1963, 1977, 1994, 2011, 2017

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Traded

67Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port

Douro · Portugal

Ungrafted vines; the most collected Port made.

A small ungrafted plot that survived phylloxera; declared only in rare years.

Classification: Vintage Port DOC
Grapes: Ungrafted field blend
Alcohol: 19–20%
Guide price: $3,000–8,000
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 40–100 years
Production: ~250 cases
Established: First Nacional 1931
Farming: Ungrafted vines
Serving: Decant fully, serve 16°C
Vintages: 1931, 1963, 1994, 2011, 2017

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Very rare

68Graham's Tawny 40 Year Old

W. & J. Graham's

Douro · Portugal

Long cask-aged tawny of nutty complexity.

Aged in seasoned casks where slow oxidation replaces bottle development.

Classification: Tawny Port DOC, 40 years
Grapes: Touriga Nacional field blend
Alcohol: 20%
Guide price: $150–220
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: Drink on release
Production: Limited release
Established: House from 1820
Farming: Cask-aged blend
Serving: Serve lightly chilled at 14°C
Vintages: Ongoing release

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Retail

69Barbeito, Madeira Malvasia Frasqueira

Madeira · Portugal

Vintage Madeira that outlasts almost any wine.

Frasqueira requires at least twenty years in cask before bottling.

Classification: Madeira DOC, Frasqueira
Grapes: Malvasia
Alcohol: 19–20%
Guide price: $200–400
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 50–150 years
Production: Limited release
Established: House from 1946
Farming: Canteiro cask ageing
Serving: Serve 14°C, keeps for months once opened
Vintages: 1978, 1993, 1995, 1996, 2000

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Allocation

70D'Oliveiras, Madeira Verdelho vintage

Pereira D'Oliveiras

Madeira · Portugal

Nineteenth and twentieth century vintages still sold.

The house holds casks running back well over a century.

Classification: Madeira DOC, vintage
Grapes: Verdelho
Alcohol: 19–20%
Guide price: $200–1,500
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: Effectively indefinite
Production: Cask releases
Established: House from 1850
Farming: Canteiro cask ageing
Serving: Serve 14°C in a small glass
Vintages: 1850, 1907, 1912, 1968, 1981

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Very rare

71González Byass, Palo Cortado Añada

Jerez · Spain

Single-vintage sherry, outside the solera.

Añada sherries are rare, since almost all sherry is solera-blended.

Classification: Jerez DO, Añada
Grapes: Palomino
Alcohol: 19–21%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: Drink on release
Production: Limited release
Established: Bodega from 1835
Farming: Cask-aged, single vintage
Serving: Serve 14°C in a copita
Vintages: 1978, 1982, 1987, 1994, 2007

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Very rare

72Equipo Navazos, La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada

Sanlúcar de Barrameda · Spain

Numbered bottlings of exceptional sherry butts.

A project selecting individual butts from bodegas and bottling them unfiltered.

Classification: Manzanilla DO
Grapes: Palomino
Alcohol: 15–17%
Guide price: $60–120
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: Drink within 5 years
Production: Single butt
Established: Project from 2005
Farming: Flor-aged under veil
Serving: Serve 8°C, drink within days of opening
Vintages: Numbered bota releases

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Allocation

73Valdespino, Inocente Fino

Jerez · Spain

Single-vineyard fino, a rarity in sherry.

From the Macharnudo Alto vineyard and fermented in cask, both unusual today.

Classification: Jerez DO, Fino
Grapes: Palomino
Alcohol: 15%
Guide price: $25–40
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: Drink within 2 years
Production: Widely distributed
Established: Bodega from 1430
Farming: Single vineyard, flor-aged
Serving: Serve 8°C, drink within days of opening
Vintages: Solera bottlings

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Retail

74Emilio Lustau, VORS Pedro Ximénez

Jerez · Spain

Sun-dried grapes, thirty years in cask.

VORS certifies an average age of at least thirty years.

Classification: Jerez DO, VORS
Grapes: Pedro Ximénez
Alcohol: 17%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: Drink on release
Production: Limited release
Established: Bodega from 1896
Farming: Sun-dried, solera aged
Serving: Serve 14°C in a small glass
Vintages: Solera bottlings

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75Royal Tokaji, Mézes Mály Essencia

Tokaj · Hungary

Free-run nectar of extraordinary sweetness.

Essencia drips from the weight of the berries alone and may ferment for years.

Classification: Tokaji Essencia
Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű
Alcohol: 2–5%
Guide price: $500–900
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 50–150 years
Production: A few hundred bottles
Established: Company from 1990
Farming: Botrytised aszú berries
Serving: Serve 12°C, a spoonful at a time
Vintages: 1993, 2000, 2008, 2013, 2017

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Very rare

76Royal Tokaji, Mézes Mály 6 Puttonyos Aszú

Tokaj · Hungary

First-growth Tokaji from a 1700 classification.

Tokaj's vineyards were classified in 1700, before Bordeaux or Burgundy.

Classification: Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos
Grapes: Furmint, Hárslevelű
Alcohol: 10–11%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 30–80 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Company from 1990
Farming: Botrytised aszú berries
Serving: Serve 11°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2000, 2007, 2013, 2016, 2017

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Allocation

77Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos

Tokaj · Hungary

AXA-owned first growth of the region.

A single contiguous first-growth vineyard, replanted after 1992.

Classification: Tokaji Aszú, 6 Puttonyos
Grapes: Furmint
Alcohol: 10–11%
Guide price: $80–130
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 25–60 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Replanted 1992
Farming: Botrytised aszú berries
Serving: Serve 11°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 2000, 2007, 2013, 2016, 2017

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Retail

78Ca' del Bosco, Annamaria Clementi

Franciacorta, Lombardy · Italy

Franciacorta's prestige cuvée.

Made in the traditional method with long lees ageing; named for the founder's mother.

Classification: Franciacorta DOCG Riserva
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero
Alcohol: 12.5%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~2,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1979
Farming: Organic (certified)
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017

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Allocation

79Bellavista, Vittorio Moretti Riserva

Franciacorta, Lombardy · Italy

Long-aged Franciacorta from selected parcels.

Released only in favourable years after several years on lees.

Classification: Franciacorta DOCG Riserva
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Nero
Alcohol: 12.5%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 12–25 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Estate from 1977
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017

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Allocation

80Nyetimber, 1086 Prestige Cuvée

West Sussex · England

England's flagship traditional-method sparkling.

Named for the Domesday Book entry recording the estate.

Classification: English sparkling wine
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 12%
Guide price: $180–250
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~1,000 cases
Established: First vintage 1992
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2009, 2010, 2013, 2014

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Allocation

81Wiston Estate, Cuvée Brut

West Sussex · England

Chalk-grown English sparkling of fine calibre.

Grown on the same chalk seam that runs beneath the Champagne region.

Classification: English sparkling wine
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier
Alcohol: 12%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 10–20 years
Production: ~2,000 cases
Established: First vintage 2008
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018

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82Gusbourne, Fifty One Degrees North

Kent · England

Prestige cuvée named for the estate's latitude.

Made only in exceptional years, from selected parcels.

Classification: English sparkling wine
Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 12%
Guide price: $150–220
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 12–25 years
Production: ~300 cases
Established: First vintage 2010
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2013, 2014, 2016

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Very rare

83Raventós i Blanc, De la Finca

Conca del Riu Anoia, Catalonia · Spain

Left Cava to found a stricter appellation.

The family withdrew from Cava in 2012 to set higher estate-grown standards.

Classification: Conca del Riu Anoia
Grapes: Xarel·lo, Macabeu, Parellada
Alcohol: 12%
Guide price: $40–60
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 8–15 years
Production: ~5,000 cases
Established: Family from 1497
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

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84Recaredo, Turó d'en Mota

Penedès, Catalonia · Spain

Single-vineyard Xarel·lo aged over a decade.

From a 1940 plot; disgorged by hand without freezing the neck.

Classification: Corpinnat
Grapes: Xarel·lo
Alcohol: 12%
Guide price: $180–280
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~300 cases
Established: First vintage 1999
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2006, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012

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Very rare

85Domaine Ott, Clos Mireille Rosé

Domaines Ott

Côtes de Provence · France

The estate that made Provence rosé serious.

Ott has bottled in its distinctive amphora-shaped bottle since 1930.

Classification: Côtes de Provence AOC
Grapes: Grenache, Cinsault
Alcohol: 13%
Guide price: $50–75
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 3–8 years
Production: ~10,000 cases
Established: Estate from 1896
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 10°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

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86Château d'Esclans, Garrus

Côtes de Provence · France

The rosé that broke the price ceiling.

From old Grenache vines, barrel-fermented; the most expensive Provence rosé.

Classification: Côtes de Provence AOC
Grapes: Grenache, Rolle
Alcohol: 14%
Guide price: $120–180
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 5–12 years
Production: ~3,000 cases
Established: First vintage 2007
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C, decant briefly
Vintages: 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

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87Château Simone, Palette Rosé

Palette, Provence · France

A rosé built to age, from a tiny appellation.

Barrel-aged and released late, quite unlike the Provence norm.

Classification: Palette AOC
Grapes: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 8–20 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: Rougier from 1830
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2016, 2018, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Allocation

88Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rosé

Bandol, Provence · France

The connoisseur's rosé, Mourvèdre-led.

Made with the same care as the estate's reds and capable of several years' ageing.

Classification: Bandol AOC
Grapes: Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $50–75
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 5–12 years
Production: ~5,000 cases
Established: Domaine from 1834
Farming: Organic (certified)
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

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Allocation

89Vin Jaune, Château-Chalon

Various Château-Chalon estates

Jura · France

Six years under veil in a sealed 62 cl bottle.

Aged without topping up for six years and three months, then bottled in the clavelin.

Classification: Château-Chalon AOC
Grapes: Savagnin
Alcohol: 14–15%
Guide price: $80–150
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 30–100 years
Production: Limited by appellation
Established: Appellation from 1936
Farming: Veil ageing, no topping up
Serving: Serve 15°C, keeps weeks once opened
Vintages: 2005, 2010, 2014, 2015, 2016

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Allocation

90Domaine Macle, Château-Chalon

Domaine Jean Macle

Jura · France

The reference producer of vin jaune.

The Macle family are widely regarded as the appellation's finest.

Classification: Château-Chalon AOC
Grapes: Savagnin
Alcohol: 14–15%
Guide price: $150–250
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 30–100 years
Production: ~500 cases
Established: Domaine from 1850
Farming: Veil ageing, no topping up
Serving: Serve 15°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2005, 2010, 2013, 2015, 2016

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Very rare

91Château Grillet / Condrieu La Doriane

E. Guigal

Condrieu, Rhône · France

Guigal's opulent expression of Viognier.

Blended from two steep granite parcels and fermented in new oak.

Classification: Condrieu AOC
Grapes: Viognier
Alcohol: 14%
Guide price: $100–150
Availability: Good availability at fine wine retailers on release
Drinking: 5–12 years
Production: ~1,500 cases
Established: First vintage 1994
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

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Retail

92Weingut Bründlmayer, Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben

Kamptal · Austria

Old-vine Heiligenstein of great longevity.

From the oldest terraces on the volcanic and sandstone slope.

Classification: ÖTW Erste Lage
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 13.5%
Guide price: $70–110
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~800 cases
Established: Estate from 1750
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 12°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

93Château Coutet, Cuvée Madame

Barsac, Bordeaux · France

Made only in the rarest Barsac years.

Declared roughly a dozen times in half a century.

Classification: Premier Cru, 1855
Grapes: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol: 13.5–14%
Guide price: $250–400
Availability: Very rare; auction houses and specialist brokers only
Drinking: 30–80 years
Production: ~100 cases
Established: First cuvée 1943
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 10°C in a small white glass
Vintages: 1989, 1990, 1995, 2001, 2009

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Very rare

94Weingut Emrich-Schönleber, Halenberg Grosses Gewächs

Nahe · Germany

Blue slate grand cru of piercing clarity.

Steep Monzinger slopes reclaimed from scrub by the family.

Classification: VDP Grosses Gewächs
Grapes: Riesling
Alcohol: 12.5–13%
Guide price: $80–120
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 15–30 years
Production: ~700 cases
Established: Estate from 1770
Farming: Sustainable
Serving: Serve 11°C in a white wine glass
Vintages: 2015, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

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Allocation

95Château Musar Blanc

Bekaa Valley · Lebanon

Indigenous Lebanese whites of oxidative depth.

Made from two ancient local varieties thought related to Chardonnay and Sémillon.

Classification: Bekaa Valley
Grapes: Obaideh, Merwah
Alcohol: 13–13.5%
Guide price: $60–90
Availability: Allocation or mailing list; secondary market via fine wine merchants and auction
Drinking: 20–50 years
Production: ~2,000 cases
Established: White from 1954
Farming: Organic practice
Serving: Serve 14°C, decant one hour
Vintages: 2000, 2008, 2012, 2015, 2016